Twice the chocolate

Double chocolate

Cocoa for the deep roasted flavour, melted dark chocolate for the richness and body. No eggs needed: the chocolate does all the work a custard normally would.

  • Makes about 1 litre
  • 20 min hands-on
  • Chill 4 hrs
  • Churn 20–30 min
  • No eggs
Illustration of a cup of chocolate ice cream

Ingredients

Makes about 1 litre (1 quart), roughly eight scoops.

  • 500 ml2 cups whole milk
  • 250 ml1 cup double cream (heavy cream)
  • 150 g¾ cup caster sugar
  • 40 g½ cup cocoa powder
  • 150 g5 oz dark chocolate, chopped small
  • 1 tsp vanilla extract
  • A good pinch of fine salt

Method

Use chocolate you would happily eat on its own, somewhere around 60 to 70% cocoa solids.

  1. Whisk the cocoa, sugar and salt together dry in a saucepan. Doing this first is what stops the cocoa going lumpy later.
  2. Whisk in a splash of the milk to make a smooth paste, then whisk in the rest of the milk.
  3. Bring to a simmer over a medium heat, whisking all the while, and let it bubble gently for 30 seconds. The cocoa loses its raw edge and the mixture thickens very slightly.
  4. Take it off the heat, tip in the chopped chocolate, and leave it for a minute before whisking smooth.
  5. Stir in the cream and the vanilla. If it is not perfectly smooth, give it ten seconds with a stick blender.
  6. Chill for at least 4 hours, ideally overnight.
  7. Churn for 20–30 minutes, then freeze in a shallow tub for 4 hours before scooping.

Worth knowing

  • Cocoa solids set hard. This is a firmer ice cream than vanilla, so give it a full ten minutes out of the freezer before serving.
  • Dutch-processed cocoa gives a smoother, darker result; natural cocoa is fruitier and sharper. Both work.
  • Do not use chocolate above 75%. Very dark chocolate has so little sugar that the texture turns chalky.
  • A pinch of instant espresso (half a teaspoon) makes chocolate taste more of itself without tasting of coffee.

Make it yours

Five ways to change it

Mexican chocolate

Add ½ tsp ground cinnamon and a small pinch of cayenne with the cocoa. Warming rather than hot.

Mocha

Whisk 2 tbsp instant espresso powder in with the cocoa at step 1.

Chocolate orange

Steep the zest of two oranges in the hot milk for 20 minutes at step 3, then strain it out.

Rocky road

Fold 75 g mini marshmallows and 50 g toasted almonds in during the last minute of churning.

Chocolate stracciatella

Drizzle 80 g melted chocolate into the machine at the very end so it sets in fine flecks.

If it goes wrong

Rescue remedies

It tastes gritty

Either the cocoa never fully dissolved or the chocolate seized. A stick blender fixes both in seconds, before chilling.

It is too hard to scoop

Chocolate ice cream always sets firmest. Add a tablespoon of golden syrup or vodka to the base before churning, and let it stand before serving.

It tastes bitter

Your chocolate is probably above 75%. Drop to 60–70%, or add another 20 g of sugar.

Can I make it with eggs?

Yes. Use the custard base and whisk 30 g cocoa into the dairy, then stir 100 g chocolate into the finished hot custard.

Next

Vanilla bean custard base

The egg-yolk classic, and the base most other flavours build on.

Coconut milk chocolate

The dairy-free version, and just as rich.

Sugar, fat and air

Why chocolate ice cream freezes harder than vanilla does.